A Night Out in Tokyo: Small Bars, Old Alleys and the Last Train Home

The map, roughly

Shinjuku and Shibuya need a change at Shinagawa. Some Keikyu Airport Line trains run through to the Toei Asakusa Line for Shimbashi and Higashi-Ginza; others require a change. Kamata is the short trip. Check the actual service in both directions, especially late at night.

Golden Gai: one room at a time

Six compact lanes in Shinjuku contain roughly 280 bars, many with room for only five or six guests. Golden Gai (新宿ゴールデン街) has been a haunt of writers, film people and musicians for decades, and every bar is its owner's own small world: punk, jazz, film, horror, a particular brand of whisky. Some are welcoming to everyone; a few are for regulars. It is popular with visitors, though not every door is open to newcomers. GO TOKYO's Golden Gai page notes that many bars open around 20:00; individual hours and charges vary.

Many bars add a cover or seat charge per person on top of drinks, but there is no reliable neighborhood-wide price. Read the sign or ask before entering; also check the drink list, minimum order and payment method. A party of one to three is easier to seat. If the bar is full or marked for regulars, keep walking. Ask before photographing the room or other guests.

Keikyu to Shinagawa, then the JR Yamanote Line to Shinjuku, and a short walk east toward Kabukicho. Many bars don't allow photos inside; look for the sign.

The yokocho: Tokyo's old alleys

A yokocho (横丁) is a side alley. Some of Tokyo's best-known food and drink lanes trace their roots to postwar stalls and markets, but each has changed since then. Come for a counter meal and the close quarters, not a promise that the city has stood still.

Shimbashi and Yurakucho: under the arches

Shimbashi makes a straightforward evening from Haneda: some Keikyu trains continue onto the Toei Asakusa Line without a change, while other services require one. Confirm the destination shown on your train. Around the station and under the brick arches of the railway heading north to Yurakucho, izakaya and standing bars spill out onto the street, with red lanterns, beer crates for tables, and the rumble of the Yamanote Line overhead.

Start with dinner near Shimbashi Station. If you still want to walk, follow the railway north toward Yurakucho and choose a second stop where the menu and charges are clear. Ginza is a separate finish for a cocktail, within walking distance of Yurakucho. GO TOKYO's Shimbashi guide is useful for orientation.

Ginza: a proper cocktail

Ginza rewards a deliberate choice. Its cocktail bars may be upstairs or in a basement, easy to miss from the street. Some are open to walk-ins; others require a reservation or primarily serve regulars. Check the bar's own listing before setting out and respect a full room or a reservation-only sign.

Budget for a possible cover charge and higher drink prices than at a standing bar. Ask about both before ordering. One carefully made drink can be a satisfying end to a Shimbashi–Yurakucho walk. Some Keikyu services continue to Higashi-Ginza via the Toei Asakusa Line; check your actual train.

Kamata: the one on your doorstep

For an easier night from Haneda, take the Keikyu Airport Line three local stops to Keikyu Kamata (京急蒲田). The area around Keikyu and JR Kamata has gyoza restaurants, standing bars and everyday izakaya. Kamata is known for hanetsuki gyoza, dumplings joined by a crisp skirt. It is a practical choice when you want dinner and a short ride home rather than a cross-city bar crawl.

Start around Keikyu Kamata Station and walk toward JR Kamata, checking menus as you go; the two are separate stations, so allow time to walk between them. For where to eat, see our Tokyo, Kawasaki and Yokohama eating guide. Getting home is three stops.

Three nights out

House rules

• You must be 20 or over to drink alcohol in Japan. A bar may ask for age ID; carry valid photo identification. Foreign visitors should follow the usual passport-carrying requirements.
• Check the bill before sitting. Some bars have a cover or seat charge. At many izakaya an otōshi (お通し), a small starter, is served with a per-person charge. Ask about the amount, any minimum order, prices and payment method before committing. A clearly explained charge is normal.
• Bring some cash. Payment methods vary, especially at small counters; confirm before ordering.
• Keep your group small. Two or three people are easier to seat. Some bars have narrow stairs and no step-free access; check before climbing if accessibility matters.
• Respect the room. Ask before taking photographs; smoking rules and last orders vary by venue. A non-alcoholic drink is fine where the menu offers one, though a minimum order or cover may still apply.
• Do not follow street touts. Tokyo Metropolitan Police warn that visitors led to bars by touts may be overcharged or have cards used without their knowledge. Choose the venue yourself and read its menu. Read the police advice.
• Check the full return trip. Many last trains fall between about 23:30 and 00:30, but the last departure that reaches Anamori-inari may be earlier because of transfers. Search the route for the date and destination, then keep a taxi fare or a nearby hotel in mind if you plan to stay later.

Why Haneda works for a Tokyo night

Stark House Haneda is a three-minute walk from Anamori-inari Station, two stops from Haneda Airport Terminal 3. some trains run through toward Shimbashi and Higashi-Ginza, Shinjuku and Shibuya are one change away, and Keikyu Kamata is three local stops away. The private studios, about 20 m² each, are set up to sleep, cook and wash like at home: a quiet street to come back to, far from the noise you've just left.

If you want to stay out past the last train every night, a hotel in Shinjuku will save you taxi fares. If you want a quiet base, a few good nights out and an easy flight home, stay here.

Frequently asked questions

Useful websites

• GO TOKYO: Golden Gai — area overview and opening patterns
• Omoide Yokocho — shop list
• GO TOKYO — official Tokyo travel information
• Keikyu — timetables and return connections
• Tokyo Metropolitan Police — avoiding street touts and overcharging
• GO TOKYO: local laws — age rules and identification

More Tokyo and Haneda guides

• Yokohama Night Out Guide
• Tokyo, Kawasaki and Yokohama Eating Guide
• Live Shows in Tokyo & Yokohama
• Osaka Bars & Night Out Guide

One last thing

Choose the neighborhood, check the bill at the door, and leave room for a second stop if the first feels right. The best night is the one you can enjoy without watching the train clock every minute.

Bars, opening hours, charges and train times change. Please drink responsibly; you must be 20 or over to drink alcohol in Japan. Areas and businesses are named for information only; this guide is not affiliated with them.